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| They knew how to raise silkworms and make
silk from the worms. "They wore blue-colored
clothes, with gold decorations made with blue,
red, purple colored threads. (from Samgukji
13th, Ohwanseonbi Dongyijeon) |
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From the Goguryeo tomb mural painting, the
patterns of Jeommun and Wonmun and dyeing
skill "Samhil" are shown. Also they
are appeared in Shilla's craftwork, showing
the relationship of those countries.
The king wore "Ochae", clothing
with colors. Officials wore blue-colored clothing,
while civilians wore brown-colored clothing.
In Baekje, they made differentiation of the
classes of the officials according to the
colors of clothing. This shows they have had
the colors of red, blue, yellow, purple, and
green. Relics of these ages - Sasin-do and
Ilwol-do in Gongju Songsan-ri tomb and Sasin-do,
yeonhwamun, cloud patterns in Buyeo Neungsan-ri
- show red, yellow, blue, and gray colors
showing their high skills for dyeing.
In Shilla, they made red-, green-, blue-,
and yellow-colored clothes for different classes
of the officials. From the color, we could
find they used botanical dyeing pigments such
as Jacho, Ggokduseoni, Jjok, Hwangbyeok, and
Ulgeum. Also, they installed the department
of dyeing to develop various skills for dyeing. |
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| Goryeo produced dyed products in private
and public factories. To cover dyeing-related
affairs, they appointed professional pigment-maker
and dyer in Doyeomseo - public dyeing factory.
Dyeing with Jacho was very famous, enough
to be known to China and have own superior
kind of Jacho. They also had a map of planting
Jacho that prohibited gathering Sanjacho. |
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| Home-handicraft, rural-handicraft, and small
factory produced dyed products for export
and people of higher class. Dyeing factory
was divided into blue-dyer 30 persons, red-dyer
20 persons, yellow-dyer 20 persons. As with
these dividing, blue and red color is the
most important colors. Blue color was dyed
with Jjok. Red was dyed with imported Sobangmok
and honghwa. Before 1800s when chemical dyeing
pigments were imported, they usually used
botanical dyes such as Chija, Ulgeum, Hwangbaek,
Honghwa, Somok, Jacho, and Jjok. As mordants,
caustic soda, lime soda, acid of Omija, acid
of Omae, alum, and Cheoljang. |
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