Botanical dyes can be classified as single-color dye and multiple-colors dye. Single-color dye is a dye that has a single color in the dye, while multiple-colors dye is a dye with various colors according to the kind of mordant (that helps dye color in the material) in the dye. Single-color dye can be classified as a direct dye, dried dye, basic dye, and flowery dye.
Direct dye is for extracting colors directly from dyes. Usually dyer put fabrics in the colors extracted from the dye to make products. Chija, Hwangbaek, Saffron, and Ulgeum are included in this category. Generally, people cut dyes into small pieces and boil down the pieces to extract a color.
Dried dye has Indolyudoche as the main ingredient, and most of blue color dyes(Jjok) are included in this category. Generally, insoluble color is reduced and extracted to get a color. After dyeing, dyed material is dried in the air to be oxidizated.
Hwangbyeok and Hwangryeon is kinds of the basic dye. If mixed with other dyes, this dye usually makes settlement. Animal fabrics are easily dyed in this dye, but botanical fabrics should be processed with tannic acid as a mordant to get a good quality of a color.
Usually this dye uses flowers of Honghwa, Bongseonhwa, Apcheokcho, and Ddalgi. This dye should be processed with mordants.
Most of botanical dyes are multiple-colors dye: Ggokduseoni, Chija, Bam, Jicho, Dotori, Eoksae, Gyejangcho, Gwehwa, Bokmok, Yangpa, Yangmae, Nomok, Sangsuri-namu, Seokryu, Maesil-namu, Ddeokcheoljjuk, Gam, Hodo, Sobangmok, Dongbaek, Sol-namu, Ssuk, Cha, and Ganghwang.
This dye is dye made with animal materials and should use mordants to dye: Kochinil also known as Yeonjichung, Borajogae, Sora, Godong, Gunso, Obaeja, Ojingeo, and Haphwanmokchung.
Mineral dye can be scratched off easily. To protect the color, a thin gruel of glutinous rice, glue, or animal oil is used as the fixative. Recently, people use juice of beans. Mineral dyes are yellow earth, Benggara, Yeondan, Jusa, Guncheong, Gamcheong, and others.